Things to know about men's classic shoes
1. Models - shoes with features
2. A short introduction to models - Every occasion
3.1 Leaf cut | Balmoral lacing
Models - shoes with features
Every classic men's shoe is described and defined on two hierarchical levels.
The superordinate category is the generic designation. Accordingly, a shoe is a brogue, oxford, holecut or similar. This is usually also called the model. At the same time, certain forms of entry (lacing) are always defined as an integral part of the model. A brogue, for example, always opens with a cutaway vamp. Whereas a blucher without a derby cut (including derby lacing) is not a blucher.
Other subordinate specifications such as plain, captoe, full or half (semi) are added. They describe a model with additional attributes within its model group. These attributions can also be understood as types within a genus.
For example, there is a "Plain Oxford" and an "Oxford Captoe". Both variants remain Oxford models. The linguistic order of model and attribute is irrelevant and a matter of habit, as long as you keep the hierarchy in mind.
A short introduction to models - Every occasion
Oxford
The Oxford is the most formal of the classic men's shoes and at the same time extremely versatile. With a closed cut and few dividing seams, it has a particularly understated appearance. This makes it the perfect shoe for business occasions, where practicality is not seen as a lack of individuality, but as an expression of seriousness and self-confidence.
Men can also celebrate in style in an Oxford. It is the shoe of choice for festivities where a dark suit is expected. On the other hand, the Oxford adds an extra dose of class to sporty clothing with jeans, chinos and a polo shirt.
Legends surround the origin of the Oxford. It is said that English students at Oxford University popularized this style in the mid-19th century. We know of similarly cut flat women's shoes made of fine glacé leather from the Biedermeier period. It is therefore not entirely unlikely that the look was adopted by young snobs in an act of youthcultural appropriation.
The Plain Oxford shows polite reserve with its smooth, seamless front vamp. Only the side seams connect the vamp and the quarters. Further dividing seams and decorations are missing.
In the Oxford Captoe (Henry model), a seam across the toe area divides the front vamp of the shoe. This cap structures the surface and visually shortens the foot.
Oxford Captoe
Brogue
The brogue owes its popularity to the distinctive broguing pattern. In the full brogue, this includes the wing cap with the lyre (perforated pattern ornament), as well as the narrow perforated strip on the edges of the heel cap and quarters. In terms of cut, the brogue is characterized by a leaf cut (Oxford lacing). Embossed leather instead of smooth leather and a double sole can further emphasize the sporty, rustic character of this versatile classic shoe.
Until a hundred years ago, the brogue was a weekend and leisure shoe with style. Today, it still is, but now also accompanies suits and sporty combinations. Only on black-tie occasions and those that once were, such as opera, theater, weddings and funerals, should perforated patterns be worn at best in homeopathic doses, i.e. as a quarter brogue.
The history of the shoe is usually explained with a legend. According to this legend, Scots and Irish people are said to have drilled holes in their peasant footwear as a drainage device to dry out their shoes and feet after a Sunday walk through the moors and before entering the church. This is not really likely. It is more likely that the thrifty Scots walked barefoot and saved their shoes for church. Nevertheless, the Morast story persists.
The full brogue (Edward model) classically combines the lyre wing cap with five-hole lacing. Fashionable variants can vary the number of lacing holes. As a rule of thumb, the more prominent the holes, the more structured the surface, the sportier the shoe.
Fullbrogue
The half brogue has a smoothly stitched cap in the style of the captoe instead of the wing cap. The hole pattern on the cap is usually more ornamental and smaller than on the full brogue. The holes are noticeably finer.
The quarter brogue looks very similar to an Oxford captoe. The only difference: a band of perforations along the dividing seams (broguing) adds a subtle decorative touch. For formal business and black-tie occasions, the quarter brogue in black box calf is largely on a par with the Oxford.
Quarterbrogue
Budapest
A full brogue with a derby cut is also known as a Budapest. Traditionally, the genuine Budapester is double-stitched (István model). Compared to the welted brogue, this makes it more compact in appearance and more robust in use.
Presumably, the brogue on the feet of Englishmen also came to Hungary before the First World War, where it spontaneously caught on and was copied. With a Derby entry and double-stitched design - often also made using a Hungarian last - it was also adapted to regional customs in terms of manufacturing technology: the Budapest was born.
Budapester
Today, the Hungarian Derby full brogue largely accompanies the same wardrobe as a double-soled brogue. Its unique selling point lies in its above-average stability and indestructibility, which otherwise only characterizes work shoes. This appealing combination of tradition and down-to-earthness is particularly beneficial for men with a sturdy build who want to be well-dressed but tend to avoid thin-soled, overly "fine" shoes.
The welted version (Johannes model) makes the Budapest look slimmer and more brogue-like and emphasizes its sporty, elegant side.
Blücher
The Blücher (Julian model) is not a shoe for self-promoters. Instead, the perfectionists among the pragmatists love it. With good reason: its formal reduction and practical Derby cut obey the utmost practicality. Even the quarters do not connect the heel section with the front vamp, but are stitched onto the one-piece shaft for extra durability. This look gives the Blücher stylistic versatility. In the spectrum from leisure to easy business with denim, corduroy and khaki, it goes with every outfit. However, this also explains its almost military austerity. This in turn could have something to do with its history or what people say about it.
Blücher
Prussian Field Marshal Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher is said to have introduced this ascetic shoe to his soldiers during the Napoleonic Wars of Liberation. A legend? The fact is that two hundred years ago, Napoleon's soldiers subjugated half of Europe in the simplest of derby shoes. Learning from Napoleon's troops means learning to win, Blücher may also have said to himself at the time - obviously not without effect.
A Blücher is usually worked over an English last close to the body. The more Mediterranean and slimmer the shape, the more the typical pragmatism is lost in the direction of performance.
Derby
The Derby shares the understated, adaptable look of the Blücher. With its practical Derby cut, it also has the same high practical value. Nevertheless, the side split seam gives it a more civilian appearance without completely shedding its uniform-like appearance. This is not necessarily meant in a military sense. Architects, for example, are naturally uniform-minded in that they often prefer solid constructions for clothing (dark suit) and shoes (Derby) and prefer to invest their time in their work rather than in personal styling.
The character of the Derby shoe also varies by last shape and color. Close-fitting shapes in dark leather look more classic, while elongated Mediterranean shapes in light shades emphasize fashionable innovation.
The quintessential Derby is the Plain Derby (George model). In its consistent lack of decoration, it has not changed for a hundred years because it has proven itself unchanged. Never change a winning style.
With its broguing pattern on the edges of the toe cap, quarters and heel cap (Alessio model), a Derby Captoe can resemble an elegant quarter brogue at first glance. The derby cut and double-stitched double sole make it impossible to confuse the two, and the more down-to-earth look is unmistakable.
Derby Captoe
Wholecut
A holecut is a shoe that stands out. Because it is different and because there is so little "to it" - supposedly. Contrary to what the layman might think, however, it is by no means a particularly "simple" shoe. On the contrary: for its one-piece upper, the leather used must be flawless. Because nothing can be concealed. In addition, its production requires enormous skill to pull the upper over the last and shape it without overstretching or creasing. This is why the quality of the Wholecut can be seen at a glance - with the necessary prior knowledge. However, anyone who acquires this knowledge will have a lot of fun with this shoe.
Wholecut
Depending on the thickness of the sole, the Wholecut adapts diplomatically to its surroundings. The double-soled double-stitched version (Francesco model) is ideal for a high-quality casual wardrobe with a penchant for traditional styles. On the other hand, it can also inspire modern dandies. On the other hand, in a darker shade and with a simple leather sole, it also goes well with suits or a navy blazer and can work its way up to a parquet floor where the highly elegant quarter brogue is also at home. In short, a great shoe for connoisseurs and explorers and those who want to become one.
Closure types
The entry, usually combined with lacing, is decisive for the style and character of a shoe. Historically, a distinction can be made between different designs.
Leaf cut | Balmoral lacing
The quarters of the shoe lie under the front vamp of the shoe and are thus fixed at one end. As a result, a shoe with a leaf cut, also known as balmoral lacing, can only be opened moderately wide. At the same time, the blade cut limits the possibility of adjusting the fit via the lacing. For highly formal models such as the Oxford and quarter brogue, the blade cut is an integral part - with five eyelets in the classic style.
Derby cut
The quarters of the shoe lie over the front vamp and can be opened wide like the doors of a wardrobe.
This entrance gives the shoe a sporty, informal character. The Derby cut is also suitable for feet with a high instep. The entry is comfortable and the lacing can be adjusted to fit the foot perfectly.
Wholecut lacing
The front vamp is opened by a cut in the middle (or on the side for Haferl models). There are no classic quarters in the sense of separate cut parts. As with the blade cut, the shaft can only be moved on one side, so the possible radius when opening is limited.
Wholecut lacing dates back to the early Middle Ages and thus transports a piece of history right up to the present day.